Hujan Panas

A typical November afternoon in Singapore

29.1°C

0.6 mm of rain in the last five minutes

Hujan Panas, a dessert house in Singapore. The weather now: Hujan

Ginger-soup weather. The warm end moves up.

No live reading on this page yet; the numbers are what this hour usually looks like.

The board

Twelve things, sorted by the sky.

We used to write the menu on a whiteboard and move the soups up by hand when it rained. Now the board does it from the nearest weather station, every five minutes.

Above about 31°C on a dry day, chilled tau huay overtakes everything by three o'clock. Below 28°C, or once it rains, tang yuan takes the top line.

Board sorted for 29.1 degrees and 0.6 millimetres of rain. First: Tang yuan in ginger syrup.

Two rice balls, one white and one pandan green, in a bowl of amber ginger syrup with crushed peanuts.
Highest on the board with a photograph: Tang yuan in ginger syrup
  1. Tang yuan in ginger syrup 汤圆

    Plain and pandan glutinous rice balls in old-ginger syrup boiled for three hours, crushed peanuts on top.

    Served hot

    where it sits on a usual day S$3.80
  2. Pulut hitam

    Black glutinous rice cooked down with pandan, a spoon of salted coconut milk on top.

    Served hot

    up 1 place on a usual day S$3.60
  3. Tau suan 豆糊

    Split mung beans thickened with sweet potato starch, with cut you char kway on the side.

    Served hot

    up 2 places on a usual day S$3.20
  4. Red bean soup 红豆汤

    Red beans and dried tangerine peel, cooked until a third of the beans have given up.

    Served hot

    up 3 places on a usual day S$3.20
  5. Orh nee 芋泥

    Yam paste, ginkgo nuts and pumpkin. Served warm. Heavier than it looks.

    Served hot

    up 5 places on a usual day S$4.80
  6. Bubur cha cha

    Sweet potato, yam and sago in coconut milk. The one people order for their mother.

    Served warm or cold

    where it sits on a usual day S$3.60
  7. Green bean soup, coconut milk 绿豆汤

    Whole mung beans and a pour of coconut milk. Warm at night, cold after lunch.

    Served warm or cold

    up 1 place on a usual day S$3.20
  8. Ang ku kueh 红龟粿

    Red tortoise kueh with peanut or mung bean filling, pressed in the old wooden mould.

    Served room

    up 3 places on a usual day S$1.40
  9. Ondeh-ondeh, six

    Pandan dough round a pocket of palm sugar, rolled in fresh grated coconut.

    Served room

    where it sits on a usual day S$3.00
  10. Kueh lapis, per slice

    Nine steamed layers. Peel them one at a time; nobody is watching.

    Served room

    up 2 places on a usual day S$1.60
  11. Tau huay, chilled 豆花

    Silken beancurd set this morning, with barley and a thin rock-sugar syrup.

    Served cold

    down 9 places on a usual day S$2.80
  12. Cheng tng, iced 清汤

    Longan, red dates, white fungus, lotus seeds and barley in a light syrup, over ice.

    Served cold

    down 8 places on a usual day S$3.80

When it rains

The warm end.

Four pots stay on the low flame from noon. The ginger syrup goes on at six in the morning and is tasted again at eleven. If it is too sharp we add rock sugar; we never add water.

A hand lifting a pandan-green rice ball on a spoon from a bowl of ginger syrup.
Tang yuan Plain and pandan balls, crushed peanuts on top, three hours of old ginger. S$3.80
A white bowl of black glutinous rice on dark slate.
Pulut hitam Soaked overnight, cooked for 90 minutes with two knotted pandan leaves. S$3.60
Two rice balls, one white and one pandan green, in a bowl of amber ginger syrup with crushed peanuts.
Ginger syrup The base of half the warm end. Old ginger only; young ginger is too polite.
Green bean soup with coconut milk in a green-rimmed bowl.
Green bean soup Coconut milk poured at the counter, not before. S$3.20

Tau suan and orh nee are the two things regulars ask for by name. Neither is pretty. Both are gone by eight on a wet night.

When it is panas

The cool end.

The tau huay sets at half past eight and goes straight into the chiller at four degrees. On the hottest afternoons we sell out of it before the school bell; on a wet day the same tray lasts until dinner.

Silken beancurd with barley in a blue and white bowl.
Tau huay, chilled. S$2.80
Cheng tng from above on a banana leaf: longan, red dates, lotus seeds and barley.
Cheng tng, iced. S$3.80

Before the shutters go up

Six in the morning, logged.

  1. Beans drained. Mung beans and red beans have soaked for eight hours. The water goes on the plants.

  2. Ginger on. 2.4 kg of old ginger, bruised with the back of a cleaver, into 18 litres of water for three hours.

  3. Soy milk on. 32 litres, stirred the whole time and never brought to a hard boil, or the tau huay tastes of the pot.

  4. Tau huay set. Forty minutes with the lid on. Nobody opens the lid.

  5. Coconut. Twelve coconuts grated and squeezed by hand; the first press goes on the soups, the second into the pulut hitam.

  6. Tasting. One spoon of everything. Sugar is adjusted now, never after we open.

  7. Syrup poured. The ginger syrup goes into a warmed jug, then over the first tray of tang yuan.

  8. Shutters up. The board reads the weather for the first time today.

Not on the weather

The kueh tray.

Kueh does not care about the sky, so it sits outside the sort. Two aunties in the next street make it and walk it over at half past ten, about 140 pieces on a weekday and 220 on a Saturday. When the tray is empty, it is empty.

Red ang ku kueh on banana leaf squares in a steamer, the tortoise pattern pressed into each one.
Ang ku kueh, peanut or mung bean. S$1.40
Ondeh-ondeh in grated coconut sitting in half coconut shells, pandan leaves behind.
Ondeh-ondeh, six for S$3.00
Two green ang ku kueh on a banana leaf on a dark wooden plate.
Pandan ang ku kueh, Saturdays
A plate of assorted kueh including rainbow kueh lapis and red ang ku kueh.
Kueh lapis, nine layers. S$1.60 a slice
Flower-shaped green pandan kueh cooling on a wire rack, a hand lifting one with tongs.
Pandan kueh, off the rack at 10:30

Our own count, October

What the weather did to the pot.

Warm bowls Cold bowls Rained after lunch 15:00 temperature, 26 to 34°C

Bowls sold each afternoon in October, warm and cold 27 days. On the 11 afternoons with rain, 69 per cent of bowls were warm. On the 16 dry afternoons, 36 per cent were warm. 1 Oct8 Oct15 Oct22 Oct

69% of bowls were warm on the 11 wet afternoons.

36% on the 16 dry ones.

3,360 bowls in October. The busiest cold day was 18 October, 32.6°C at three o'clock.

Find us

Two streets from the shophouses everyone photographs.

21 Jalan Gerimis, #01-03
Singapore

+65 6100 0218
hello@hujanpanas.sg

Opening hours
Tuesday to Thursday12:00 – 22:30
Friday and Saturday12:00 – 23:30
Sunday12:00 – 22:00
MondayClosed

One house rule: if it is still raining at closing time, the pot stays on for another half hour.

A person under a black umbrella on a wet Singapore street, a green bus passing the old police station's coloured shutters.